Broad Peak
Broad Peak (Urdu:; Chinese; pinyin: also known as , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 metres (26,414
ft). The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.
Geography
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and ChinaIt is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0
mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
Climbing history
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by
Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished
without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base camp support
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hour
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over
8,000 metres.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina
Castagna
In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude
porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to 7 more individuals from other expeditions. They all summitted on July
31, 2012.[citation needed]
On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was 12th Eight-thou sander summited in winter
time and 10th Eight-thou sander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[8] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m)
and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Korzybski Licking said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka
and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalsk On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended
In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and
Mojtaba Jarahi, ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead
Further reading
Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Ehrenberg nit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
Rejuvenate notion (Starry Nights) by Duran Javelin, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
Anna Wickerwork Broad Peak'83 Tylenol dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turkestan", Warsaw 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
Broad Peak (Urdu:; Chinese; pinyin: also known as , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 metres (26,414
ft). The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.
Geography
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and ChinaIt is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0
mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
Climbing history
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by
Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished
without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base camp support
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hour
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over
8,000 metres.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina
Castagna
In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude
porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to 7 more individuals from other expeditions. They all summitted on July
31, 2012.[citation needed]
On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was 12th Eight-thou sander summited in winter
time and 10th Eight-thou sander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[8] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m)
and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Korzybski Licking said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka
and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalsk On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended
In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and
Mojtaba Jarahi, ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead
Further reading
Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Ehrenberg nit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
Rejuvenate notion (Starry Nights) by Duran Javelin, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
Anna Wickerwork Broad Peak'83 Tylenol dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turkestan", Warsaw 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
No comments:
Post a Comment